Glimpses of Soul Photography bio picture
  • Welcome to Glimpses of Soul Photography!

    My name is Mandy and I am a newborn, child and family photographer in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area. I shoot with natural light and work on-location (your home, a favorite park or urban area). My sessions are fun, laid back and comfortable and my goal is to capture real life.

    Browse the site or use the links above to find the information you need. Sessions generally book 2-3 weeks in advance so feel free to contact me when you're ready. If you're expecting, it's still best to book before you deliver; we'll narrow down the date when the little one arrives!

Using Templates and Collages in Photoshop | 31 Days of Photo Tips

Storyboards and collages are a great way to assemble multiple photos for display, either in print or on your website/blog. Using a template makes it even easier and there are many free or inexpensive templates available online. Once you know how to do it, assembling them isn’t very difficult.

When you open a template in Photoshop, it will look something like this. Each black box will hold a photo. If you look at the layers palette on the right side, you’ll see that each photo block has it’s own layer.

Open the first photo you’d like to insert and drag it onto your template. In the layers palette, drag the photo layer until it’s just above the layer with the block you’d like it to go. For now, the photo will cover your entire template and look something like this:

To fix this, you’ll want to create a clipping mask. Right click on the photo layer and select Create Clipping Mask. This will make it so that your photo only shows through that one shape.

Now your photo will be contained within the box but will still be too big so you’ll want to resize it. Use Ctrl + T (PC) or Command + T(Mac) to Transform your image – this will create a resizing box around it. Make sure to hold down the Shift key while dragging the corners of your photo so that it will retain the proper shape.

Drag the corners of the image until it’s small enough to fit into your first template window.

Keep repeating these steps until you’ve filled all the areas in your template.

Once you’ve finished inserting all the images, make sure to turn off any guide layers – layers with letters that help you find which layer correlates to which box, but info that you don’t want in your final image. You can turn off a layer by clicking on the eye next to it in the layers palette.

And tada, you have your collage!

 

>>> Download the template used in this post for free here. Share the link if you’ve used it!

 

Preparing Images for the Web | 31 Photo Tips

One of the most common things to do with photos these days is to share them on the web. But images that come from your camera aren’t optimized for web viewing – they’re too big and not sharp enough. Decreasing the file size will help your images load more quickly, take up less online storage space and be viewable in a suitable height/width for the page.

Many sites (Facebook, for example) allow you to upload a full size image and then resize it for you. This isn’t ideal for two reasons: 1. An image properly sized will look better than a large image that’s been automatically compressed. 2. You’re providing everyone with access to your full-resolution (ie. printable) files.

Here’s a quick tutorial on resizing and sharpening (an important step that many people miss!) photos in Adobe Photoshop Elements.

We’ll start the resizing process after you’ve done all your other editing and your photo looks the way you want it to. Make sure you save a full-resolution copy of the image first in case you want to print it. Then you’re going to go to the Image menu and select Resize > Image Size.

The first thing you want to change is your resolution. 300dpi is appropriate for printing but monitors only display 72dpi. Keeping it at 300dpi only unnecessarily increases your file size. So change your resolution to 72.

Then you’re going to select an appropriate width and height for your image using pixel dimensions. The exact size depends on what you’re using the image for. Facebook displays images at 960 pixels wide or 720 pixels tall. If you’ve got your own blog, the size will template on your template. For example, the photos here are only 950px wide.

You only need to enter height OR width. Photoshop will automatically change the other measurement to keep your photo in proportion. So if you’re resizing a photo that’s in landscape orientation (horizontal) for Facebook, enter 960 in the width box. If you’re resizing a photo that’s portrait orientation (vertical), enter 720 in the height box.

Your image is now resized to an appropriate web size but not yet as good looking as it can be. It needs some sharpening. All images, regardless of how expertly it was taken or what type of gear you used, benefit from some sharpening when viewed on the web.

From the Enhance menu, select Unsharp Mask. (That sounds totally counter-intuitive, doesn’t it, choosing something called unsharp in order to sharpen. The term is derived from an old film process – you can read the details here or you can just trust me that this is what you should use.)

In the dialog box, you’ll want to adjust the Amount and the Radius. The precise amounts will depend on each photo and how sharp it is initially. I usually start with a .4 or .5 radius and 60% for the Amount. I do not go over .7 Radius or 100% Amount. There is a limit to how much sharpening can be done before it starts to destroy the image and look poorly. Unsharp Mask will help you create a crisper image but it cannot fix out of focus problems. Try playing around with different amounts to get a feel for what each box does, how far you can push it and what looks best for you photo.

Now that you’ve resized and sharpened your image, it’s ready for the web – unless you’d like to add a watermark. Watermarks can be helpful for letting people know who took the photo, especially with the proliferation of things like Pinterest where images are constantly passed on and often not attributed. They don’t always prevent theft but can be a good deterrent.

If you’re just getting started with watermarking, an easy way to do it is to just type right on your image. (Eventually, if you’re watermarking a lot of images, an action or a brush will be helpful).

Select the Text tool from the palette on the lefthand side and click on your photo to type. You can adjust size, font, boldness, etc. Once you’ve typed what you want, you’ll notice that on the right size, in your Layers palette, you’ve got one layer with your photo and one with your text. If you click on the one with your text, you can then use the opacity slider just above it to reduce the opacity of your text. This just helps make it a little more subtle and detract from the photo a bit less, while still being apparent.

Now you’ll want to save all the edits you’ve just made to your photo. Make sure you do a Save As. You don’t want to replace your original, printable file with a web resolution file.

Now you can rename your image. You can do something as simple as adding “web” to the file name: IMG_2930web.jpg Or you can title it something memorable. If you’ve got a blog and you’re trying to get more hits, title your photo with a description – it will help boost your search engine optimization.

. . . . . . . . . .

Now that I have told you how to do all of this step-by-step, I’ll let you know that MCP Actions has a free Facebook fix action set for Photoshop or Photoshop elements. But I think it’s important to know how to do this yourself so that you know what’s going on behind the action and because there will be times when you’ll want to customize it specifically for your photo.

Focusing Modes | 31 Days of Photo Tips

Nearly all dSLR cameras come with a variety of focus modes. Knowing how these work can be helpful in getting a crisp, sharp focus in different shooting situations.
ai servo

One shot (Canon)/AF-S(NIkon) – This is the standard mode of focusing. When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera will lock in a single focus and retain it until you either take the shot or release the button. This is good for stationary subjects or subjects that are moving parallel to you, but not coming closer or moving farther away. It allows you to focus and then recompose the shot for a better composition.

roller derby

AI Servo (Canon)/AF-C (Nikon) – In this mode, once the shutter is pressed halfway, the camera continuously focuses. It attempts to detect motion of the subject in your frame and refocuses until you take the shot. This is great for sports or other action photography when the subject is moving.

AI Focus (Canon)/AF-A (Nikon) – This mode is a combination of the previous two. It begins in One Shot mode but switches modes to AI Servo if it detects movement in the frame. This can be useful if you want the ability to focus and recompose but then also to catch any quick action. For example, you’re taking portraits of a child who is sitting still but also want to catch them in motion when they suddenly jump up and take off.

macro shots

Manual – This, of course, is when you do the focusing yourself by adjusting the lens. This is handy for shooting macro when the depth of field is very shallow and your focus must be very precise. It is also helpful for shooting in low-light situations when your camera “hunts” or can’t find something to focus on, as well as when shooting through glass or a fence where the camera has a hard time determining what to focus on and you end up with a shot of the glass reflection or fence wires. If you’re shooting in manual, make sure you’ve set your diopter properly.

(Don’t worry about that guy up there, he’s just having a nap.)

Back to Zero | 31 Days of Photo Tips

A very quick tip today as I’m busy mourning my lack of winnings at Bingo last night. (Just kidding – busy working!) (But I really didn’t win anything last night, which is sad.)

When you’re done shooting, before you put your camera away, reset everything to “zero.” Put your ISO on 100, your exposure compensation to 0, your white balance to auto, your file type whatever type you usually use, etc. That way, the next time you grab it, you won’t mistakenly shoot your next mid-day photos with settings you adjusted for night photography.

Today’s Suggested Topic:

Food
Grab a snack or set up an elaborate dinner. Try to make it look appealing!

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Lens Rental | 31 Days of Photo Tips

If you’re thinking of purchasing a new lens but aren’t quite sure if you want it, or if you’re hoping to shoot one specific event that you don’t have equipment for but don’t need to purchase, you might consider renting.

Local to the Twin Cities, West Photo rents a variety of gear, including lenses, camera bodies, lighting, etc. However, they’ve recently changed a few things about their rental program that make it a little less accessible – they require a credit card for a security deposit and the cost of the lens is reserved on your card. So if you’re renting a $1100 lens, you’ll need to have $1100 available, at least temporarily, on a credit card. They also require a liability and inland marine insurance policy, something most amateur photographers do not have.

There are several online sites that also rent lenses and have fewer requirements, making it easier to rent as a hobbyist. You reserve a lens for a specific period of time and it’s shipped to your door. When you’re done, you ship it back. It’s a nice way to test out something temporarily.

BorrowLenses.com
LensRentals.com
LensProToGo.com

Turn Off Your Flash | 31 Days of Photo Tips

And learn how to before you need to.

Regardless of what type of camera you have, from camera phone to professional level dSLR, in most cases, your built-in flash will not add to the quality of your images. Sometimes it’s necessary simply to get a shot in an otherwise dark room but generally creates a very harsh, flat light. It’s almost always better to either increase your ISO and aperture to accommodate the darkness if possible, create a situation with more natural light or use an external flash. (Fill flash is an exception which I may or may not write a tip on later. :) )

But there are several specific situations in which I would like to talk about turning off your flash. The first is concerts, performances, sporting events, graduations, weddings or any other situation where you’re in a darker area and seated/standing a great distance from the photo subject.

Girl TalkIMG 3332

Girl TalkIMG 3490

I attend concerts fairly frequently and without fail, there is someone in the crowd with their camera, flashing away. They take a photo, look at it and see the brightly highlighted back of head of the person in front of them and pure blackness up on the stage. So they take another photo. And another. And the same thing keeps happening.

The thing about light is that it’s subject to the Inverse Square Law which means that the intensity of the light decreases rapidly as it gets farther from its source. Light that is twice as far away is 1/4 the intensity. Light that is 4 times as far is 1/16 the intensity and so on.

To prove that I have no future in infographics, I have made this handy little diagram for you.

What this means is that light spreads out and gets weaker/dimmer as it gets farther away from its source. Think about holding up a flashlight in the dark and the triangular shape the light makes as it spreads away.

And what THAT means is that your flash is not reaching the stage from where you’re standing and all it’s doing is annoying the heck of the people standing around you. Learn how to turn it off.

……….

The other situation is when you’re shooting through glass, like at the zoo. Shooting into glass with a flash will give you a bright, white reflection and nothing else. Again, you’ll want to turn your flash off. Put your camera up close to the glass to avoid other reflections and hold it as steady as possible to get a clearer shot but don’t use your flash.

zoo animal
(This guy gets sad when you flash him.)

All of these situations above can be difficult to get a crisp shot in because of the low light. Some of the things that can help are shooting at a wider aperture (smaller number), increasing your ISO (“film” speed) and steadying your camera as much as possible.

flash symbols

Different cameras have different methods of turning off the flash. If you’re using a dSLR in one of the program modes (any mode with a picture), you can generally just push down the flash when it pops up. You can also switch to aperture priority (AE), shutter priority (TV) or Manual modes which will allow you to control your own settings without automatic flash.

On a compact camera, the flash control is usually done through the menu settings. Some cameras have a flash button built in, some require a step or two through the menu first.

The graphic above shows the three common flash statuses. In automatic, the flash will fire when the camera thinks it needs to. In the on status, it will fire with every shot. In the off status, it won’t fire at all.

Figuring out how to turn off your flash when you’re in the dark, surrounded by people and missing whatever important event you’re hoping to capture photos of can be flustering. If you don’t know how to turn off your flash easily, go grab it now (and maybe the manual, too) and figure it out so you’ll be ready the next time you need to do it.

[The concert photos above are from the March 2011 Girl Talk show in Minneapolis. If you're interested in music photography, you can view some of my work here.]

Today’s Suggested Topic:

Burst of Color
Bright or bold, capture some great color.

  Share a link to your photo in the comments section or upload it to the Glimpses of Soul Facebook Page.

 

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